Making a mobile unit

The GPS part of it sounds interesting. Right now I will be using the GMC-080 or my spare 200 unit. I do have the Version 5 kit from BroHogan that I'm finishing up and might end up with that one for the final install. Ok on the no add cap, only read that others were using RG-58 of which is 50 ohms and running it straight was giving them clicks like mad. So I guess they added, I believe it was, another cap to the line. Also read that too about moving the anode resistor to the tube as you say, that's another option. I like the M4011 alot, all my units except for the handheld one I got off ebay for a good deal uses SI-29BG in it and is pretty good too. This has a small 2x8 lcd with it, great little unit for AtomicDave and what I have been learning this Arduino stuff about programming it and playing with the code. Now I have a version 5 unit that I can't wait to finish up. I have a UNO PCB now that I am learning to program and going to make a radiation unit for it and can get all sorts of shields to go with it, even a gps one. Probably just run this unit as is for the time being, then upgrade it once everything is working good. In the meantime, if you need a beta tester for .42, you know you can count on me. The M4011 tubes run about $23 via GQ electronics, that I have seen the cheapest and about the bigest I can go inside the "gutted" GPS unit housing. There are a bunch of used ones online so I can bought a few cheap ones for the project some time ago.If I use the kit from brohogan, I think I can log with that with the added unit.

Just swapped out the 5 foot length to a 15 foot one on my mobile, vehicle dome unit project. Getting tad higher readings, quite a few double and triple clicking going on now suggestions? perhaps what, I believe, Dan stated, moving the anode resistor from the unit to the tube end?

So my mobile attempt unit has been running good for about 2 weeks now since last posting about it. I have to reread thru the postings, so my readings/counts are basically doubled with the longer 15 foot cable, is this a capacitance issue ( install a cap) or move the anode resistor to the tube end would bring back inline? I can live with these readings anyways since this is my GMC-200 unit with no display to mostly going by audio clicking rate would alert me to a raise in level on the road. Also going to be adding a Arduino Uno unit to it with a display for counts, etc.

So,to revisit this one again, I have had my unit on the truck now for about 3 weeks. I'm using one of my spare GMC-200 units. About 15 feet of cable. Appears to be working ok but unlike my indoor unit that just clicks for every trigger, the mobile one seems like its a double click for every detection. In this listing, there was a mention of moving the anode resistor to the tube end, would this take care of the double clicking?

Frank wrote:

So,to revisit this one again, I have had my unit on the truck now for about 3 weeks. I'm using one of my spare GMC-200 units. About 15 feet of cable. Appears to be working ok but unlike my indoor unit that just clicks for every trigger, the mobile one seems like its a double click for every detection. In this listing, there was a mention of moving the anode resistor to the tube end, would this take care of the double clicking?

Gee, all your circuit guru's out here and no plies? But I did come across this nice writeup/explanation thou and have a better understanding now, that RH Electronics. But for now, without going this route, I'm running a 10 foot length of shielded sensor wire and getting double clicks. Also, for the time being, running GMC-080 counter for the experiment.
RH Electronics link: http://www.rhelectronics.net/store/high-voltage-geiger-probe-driver-module-380v-550v-with-ttl-output.html

Frank

Images of my running, external dome. Its a GPS, marine mount dome that I gutted and installed my M4011 tube inside. Just barely fits, but at least its snug in there. Wire runs to the inside to my GMS-080 unit sitting in the cup holder.