Custom firmware for the FS2011/FS9000/NR-950/YT-203B Geiger counters

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1 year 4 months ago #6504 by Simomax

One more thing: before flashing the Rad Pro firmware, could you measure the voltage on the tube, and check it is the same after flashing? I can't test this as I don't have a GD32 device with a J305 tube.

Sure, not a problem. I'll dig out my Gigaohm resistor and try and get a good reading.

Something I have noticed with my FS2011 is that it reads high. About twice what my other counters read. I suspect it is because they have changed the tube to a more sensitive tube without altering the conversion factor. I know your firmware supports multiple tubes, but can the conversion factor be set?

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1 year 4 months ago - 1 year 4 months ago #6516 by gissio
I just released Rad Pro 1.3.0 which adds support for the J305 tube and configurable conversion factors, as well as data logging using the built-in flash memory. "larkar" might be interested in this.

Gissio.-
Last edit: 1 year 4 months ago by gissio.

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1 year 4 months ago - 1 year 4 months ago #6518 by Simomax
Ugh, lets try this again... 3rd try at not loosing my text! Trying to post with fat fingers appears to be harder than flashing the firmware! 

Hi Gissio,

Success! I have managed to backup the original firmware and flash your Radpro 1.3.0 on to my FS2011. It was pretty easy and all worked first time following your instructions. It was harder downloading the drivers for the ST LINK dongle as they wanted details, email etc... Meh.... It appears to be working well so far, much better than the stock. The original firmware was reading double uSv than it should have been. I think the conversion factor was set for the HH614 tube and not the (clone/copy) J305 that was fitted. Comparing to a couple of other counters I have laying about, your Radpro 1.3.0 appears to be reading correctly now. I have since fitted an original J305βγ as I broke the original tube trying to remove it. The tube still works but the metal caps have fallen off each end. I can still use it but I'll have to crimp some wires onto the wires coming out of the tube. I will probably do this and refit it at some point.

I couldn't find my Gigaohm resistor (somewhere in my empire of dirt/workshop) but I did read the voltage before and afterwards anyway. With the meter burden it was reading 176.4 volts and with your Radpro 1.3.0 it is reading 179.8. I have fitted new batteries since reading the original though so that could be the discrepancy.

 


Cheers, Simomax
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Last edit: 1 year 4 months ago by Simomax.

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1 year 4 months ago - 1 year 4 months ago #6519 by Simomax
Something to note: I can't read the tiny text easily. It's too small. I have to wear reading glasses due to surgery I have had on both my eyes in the past. I usually wear +1.25 (+1 - +1.5 are fairly standard) for the computer/general stuff, but even with those the text is too small. I have to wear +3.5 (these are strong magnification) glasses to read the tiny writing effectively. This is due to the focal length of the reading glasses. For my +1.25 the to focus properly the counter (or any subject) has to be about 2 foot (60 cm) away from my eyes. I can see the text, but it is very small so I struggle to read easily. Wearing my +3.5 the subject has to be about 10 inches (25 cm) away, and the text is very readable. 

I don't think this will be an issue for young people, but some people will probably struggle to read the tiny text. No biggie though as I can read the massive text without my glasses! 

I'll also get around to getting the stock firmware from my HFS-P3 for you soon.
Last edit: 1 year 4 months ago by Simomax.

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1 year 4 months ago #6524 by steadramon
My FS2011 arrived today, put in fresh batteries... and nothing

Any tips? Or might I have a DOA?

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1 year 4 months ago #6525 by Simomax
Oh no. That's not good. The best I can suggest is take apart and make sure you have voltage at the board. If you do then the usual fault finding I guess. The wire that is used between the battery connectors is awful. It's too stiff for this kind of application. It may be one wire has snapped off.

Hmm, you did press and hold the power button, right?

That's about the best I can offer without having the thing in my own hands to look at and test.

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